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Registration
You are required by law to register
your dog at three months of age. The registration tag also
acts as identification if your dog gets lost, the finder can
let you know.
Wellington SPCA sees many dogs and pups that have been hit
by cars, it is vital that the caregiver can be contacted immediately.
Settling In
Give your dog time to settle into its new home. Give it a
place of its own inside the house to escape to for peace and
security.
When welcoming an adult dog into your home, it is advisable
to keep a close eye on it until it becomes used to you and
to its new home. You need to be very patient with your new
friend. If you have visions of a super-obedient dog, remember
that you didn’t learn everything overnight and nor will
your dog.
Housing
If you want to keep your dog outdoors, you will need to buy
or build a good, weatherproof kennel. The kennel must be raised
above ground level to keep out the damp, and it should be
big enough for the dog to stand up and turn around in comfortably.
The best place to put the kennel is in a dry, sunny spot with
shade in the summer. Do not place the kennel way down the
backyard, as your dog will not use it. By placing it close
to the house by the back door, the dog will use it all the
time as this is where you enter and leave the house and your
dog can be close to you.
If housing your dog indoors, it will need a basket or bed
of blankets away from draughts, noise and young children.
Your dog may get lonely at night, so give it a warm bed and
something soft to cuddle up to.
Health/Veterinary
Requirements
Vaccinations
Dogs must be immunised against disease. Parvovirus, for example,
is extremely contagious and , if untreated, will usually result
in a painful and distressing death.
Your dog has been given its first vaccination against Canine
Distemper, Hepatitis and Parvovirus. A vaccination certificate
is included with your kit. It takes 14 days before the vaccination
becomes effective, so it is important to keep your dog away
from other dogs until it has finished its vaccination course.
Your dog requires a booster vaccination one month after it’s
first vaccination. You should make an appointment with Wellington
SPCA or your local veterinarian to have this done.
Worming
An adult dog should be wormed at least every six months with
broad-spectrum tablets that cover roundworms, hookworms, whipworms,
and tapeworms (especially hydatids).
Failure to worm your dog could result in sickness or even
death. If at any time your dog appears unusually tired, lacks
appetite and seems depressed, contact your veterinary surgeon
immediately – within the hour.
Flea Control
Flea problems are usually much easier to prevent than to treat,
so start before you notice any fleas on your pet. There are
many products available – talk to SPCA staff or your
vet to decide which is best for you. When buying a flea product,
remember to read the packaging carefully. Not all flea products
are safe to use on young animals. If you have a bad flea problem,
you will need to treat your house with a flea bomb or have
it professionally treated.
Grooming
Brush your dog’s coat at least once a week, or daily
if it is long-haired. Bath the animal occasionally when the
weather is fine, but avoid getting water in its ears as this
can cause canker, a painful ear condition. Use warm water
rather than cold.
You should check the dog’s coat for signs of fleas
or “flea dirt”(small coils of dried blood) at
least once a week. Failure to treat flea infestation can lead
to severe skin problems in the dog, other animals, or humans
in the household. Remember to deflea the dog’s bedding
at the same time as its housing.
It is very important to check your dog’s teeth and
ears regularly. Bad breath and smelly or dirty ears are often
the first sign of infection. Claws need to be checked, especially
small dogs.
Feeding Your New Dog
We suggest that you keep to the same feeding programme that
the dog has been on at the SPCA. A sudden change in diet can
cause all sorts of stomach problems in your dog. Your dog
has been receiving no milk while at the SPCA, only water,
along with two meals a day.
Some fresh or cooked meat along with dog sausage, canned
dog foods, dog biscuits, an occasional brisket bone and water
should provide a suitable balance of the essentials and should
therefore be sufficient for keeping and feeding a healthy
dog. Boiled rice and vegetable can be included in the diet,
as it is natural for dogs to eat vegetable matter.
There are many prepared dog foods on sale and these are subject
to regular quality checks so the nutritional value of such
foods should be quite good. They are also free from hydatids
disease and are therefore safe to feed to dogs. We suggest
Pal and Champ tinned dog food, dog rolls (that state that
they are complete balanced) and biscuits. We find that dogs
do very well on these foods.
Bones
Do not feed chicken, fish or cooked roast bones as these can
splinter and perforate the dog’s intestines leading
to a painful death. The safest bones to give a dog are raw
brisket or canon bones.
Some Myths About Feeding Dogs
• Dogs only like meat
• Dogs like the same foods
• Dogs don’t eat vegetables
• Canned dog foods are bad for the dog
A stomach upset is likely due to change in environment but
should pass quickly. However, if the problem continues for
more than two days, contact our vet at Wellington SPCA.
Points To Note
If you must leave your dog in the car, remember to park in
the shade. Leave the window partially open to allow fresh
air in, and put a bowl of water on the floor. Even on a relatively
mild day a car can heat up and severely distress or kill a
dog. This can happen in less than 10 minutes. Dogs dehydrate
quickly due to heavy panting. If you are going shopping in
warm weather, leave your dog at home where it will be more
comfortable.
Lost Pets
If your animal goes missing it may end up at our one of our
shelters. Always check with your local animal shelter, pound
and vet clinic if your animal goes missing.
If you have access to the Internet you can visit Pets on
the Net at www.petsonthenet.co.nz
This website will advise you on what to do if you animal goes
missing. You can also search for found animals and place your
lost animal on their database.
Help us by keeping an ID tag on your dog at all times, as
this will help the return of your animal.
Remember To Also Contact Your Local Dog Pound And Vet Clinic.
Basic Training
The bond that exists between a dog being trained and its
handler can be extremely powerful and bring much pleasure
to the dog and handler alike. A trained dog is an enjoyable
dog.
The behaviour of most dogs can be modified through consistent
praise for desired behaviour. A sternly stated anger tone
can also cause changes in unwanted behaviour if used consistently
whenever the unwanted behaviour occurs. The clap of hands
can startle a dog, stopping him from doing the unwanted action.
The verbal correction may have to be reinforced by physically
preventing the dog from carrying out the unwanted behaviour,
if it persists.
At about five months of age is a suitable time to commence
formal obedience training for most dogs. However, firm but
gentle training should begin as soon as possible. House-training
at about eight weeks of age is a good starting point.
The basics of training involve conditioning the dog to respond
immediately to the commands “stand”, “sit”,
“down”, “stay”, “heel”
and “come”. Use only one word for each command.
Do not be harsh for incorrect responses but do correct mistakes
immediately.
It is a good idea to enrol in dog obedience classes. Details
of your nearest Club can be found in your local paper or by
ringing the New Zealand Kennel Club. Do not expect instant
results. The dog becomes conditioned through the handler’s
constant efforts over a period of time.
Remember that the dog is an animal, not a machine and, as
such, will have good days and bad days just like the owner.
Allow one 15 minute lesson each day. Move to a new command
when your dog has well learnt the previous one.
Build up a friendship with the dog through work and play,
as this should help increase the dog’s responsiveness.
In addition to attending basic dog obedience class it is
advisable to read some of the many books available on dog
training and behaviour. If you make an effort to understand
the basic principle behind dog training, then the training
itself will become much easier and more enjoyable for both
you and your dog.
However, there are many methods and approaches to training.
You will need to decide what is the right method for you and
the type of dog you have. If what you are doing works, it’s
right. If it is not working, then try something else that
will. It must leave your dog’s spirit intact.
Four House-training Hints
1. If the dog is not already house-trained, begin as soon
as you get the dog home.
2. Anticipate your dog’s need to toilet, usually
after a meal or a drink of water. Observe the dog for signs
that it is about to toilet – this often involves frantic
sniffing around for a suitable spot.
3. Praise the dog for toileting in the correct place as
it does so. This will let the dog know that it is doing
what your require.
4. Be patient and consistent, and praise your dog each
time it toilets in the right place. Do not punish for accidents,
but monitor and guide the dog to what you expect. Never
rub the dogs nose in it, as it will not understand why!
Sometimes, this could even make the problem, worse.
Remember: a dog’s overall behaviour
is usually the consequence of the owner’s approach to
its training and management.
Key Points in Training
1. Start early
2. Praise, don’t punish
3. Use single-work commands
4. Correct mistakes immediately
5. Be firm but gentle
6. Make training a daily activity
7. Enrol in dog obedience classes, and read dog training
books
Obedience Training For Dogs
If your dog has been through the basic training for puppies
up to the age of about 20 weeks it is time to begin more formal
obedience training, beginning with reinforcement of the basic
commands. For large dogs you now require the heavier 1.2 metre
leash. This may be a good time to contact your local dog obedience
club. Details of your nearest club can be found by contacting
your local Kennel Association. Allow for one 15 minute lesson
a day.
Heel
Most local Council regulations require that your dog be on
a lead at all times when outside your property. A dog trained
to “heel” makes walking your dog on a led a pleasant
and agreeable occupation (as well as a healthy one for both
dog and caregiver).
The ideal “heel” position is where your dog walks
about a foot to your left and with its head parallel to your
body. Your dog should neither pull ahead nor lag behind. It
should maintain this position regardless of any change in
your direction or pace.
Use the check-chain and the 1.2 metre lead held in the right
hand, with your dog on your left and facing in the same direction.
Say your dog’s name, pause, and then give the command
“heel”, at the same time stepping forward with
the left foot. Always step forward with the left foot –
it acts as a visual cue for your dog.
Should your dog attempt to pull ahead, say “heel”
in a firm voice and do a quick about-turn. Praise the dog
as it responds. If your dog pulls ahead again, repeat the
process – it will quickly learn that it will go no further
unless it walks with its head beside you and on a loose lead.
If your dog is distracted to the left, say “no”
and jerk the lead horizontally to the right but do not stop.
Follow with the command “heel”, and praise the
dog as it responds. If the dog is distracted to the rear,
jerk forward at its shoulder height. If it is distracted to
a scent on the ground, jerk vertically upwards.
If, on the other hand, your dog is tired and tends to lag
behind, encourage it to come forward with an inviting tone
and patting your left thigh with the left hand. Praise the
dog when it is done correctly.
Sit
Sitting is a very natural position for a dog. This command
is one of the best ways of gaining quick control of your dog.
It is useful in a number of situations – particularly
when feeding, opening the front door or gate, and prior to
crossing a road: situations where an untrained dog’s
exuberance could often cause problems.
Use the 1.2 metre lead and check-chain collar. With your
dog walking at your side in the correct “heel”
position, stop, facing straight ahead. Give the command “sit”.
At the same time, pull the leash up vertically above the dog’s
head with your right hand and bring pressure to bear on the
dog’s hindquarters with the open palm of your left hand,
pushing down and slightly forward until its rump is on the
ground. Correct the position if your dog is not sitting correctly.
Slacken the lead and praise your dog with slow strokes on
its head. Teach your dog to sit close beside you and facing
straight ahead.
Down/Drop
The “down/drop” position is probably the most
comfortable position for your dog, and is another good method
of controlling it. There are a number of techniques for teaching
your dog to go “down” or “drop” on
command. We have outlined two, which are fairly common practice.
1. The “down/drop” position
is easiest from the “sit” position. Transfer the
lead to your left hand. Turn to face the side of your dog
and kneel on your right knee. Place your left forearm across
its shoulders, then put your right hand between your dog’s
front legs and hold its left foreleg. Give the command “down”,
simultaneously moving your dog’s forelegs forward with
your right hand and arm and putting downward pressure on its
shoulders with your left forearm. When the dog is lying down,
praise it.
2. The other technique is to kneel on your
right knee facing the side of your dog, with the lead grasped
firmly in your right hand close to the clip and held underneath
your dog’s neck. Give the command “down”
or “drop”, at the same time jerking the lead straight
down with your right hand and pushing down on your dog’s
shoulders with your left hand. When your dog is in the correct
position, release the pressure on the lead and praise the
dog.
Stay
Your dog is easily trained to “stay” in either
the “sit” or the “down” position.
As the latter is the most comfortable, it should be used whenever
you require your dog to remain there for an extended period
of time. It is extremely useful, for example, when guests
arrive – just put your dog in the “down/stay”
position in a spot where the dog is out of the way but can
still see everything that is going on. Remember that your
dog likes to feel included in your activities.
With your dog in the “sit” position at your left
side and the lead in your right hand give the command “stay”
signal with your left hand by swinging it outwards slightly
in front of the dogs face; step forward with your right foot,
not the left. This gives your dog a visual cue distinctly
different from the one it has learned to associate with the
command “heel”.
As your right foot meets the ground, turn and face your dog,
leaning slightly forward with the left arm extended palm facing
the dog; transfer the lead to your left hand. Be prepared
to say “no” and, if necessary, give an upward
jerk on the lead if the dog moves. When your dog has remained
stationary for approximately ten seconds, keep your left hand
holding the lead in position above your dog and confidently
walk around behind it, returning to its right side; stop,
and praise your dog.
Some dogs are very disturbed if you walk round behind them.
In this case, it is better to leave that stage until they
are comfortable with the exercise. Instead, move around in
front of the dog but keep your left hand, holding the lead,
directly over its head. This way your hand is in the right
position to correct the dog with a quick upward jerk if it
moves, relaxing immediately you say “no”. Once
the dog has learned the lesson well, you can place the lead
on the ground and move even further away. Eventually, you
can move out of sight and your dog will “stay”
until you return to stand by its right side and praise it.
Stand
Being able to “stand” your dog on command is extremely
useful for veterinary examination and grooming. Like “sit”,
this is taught with your dog walking beside you in the “heel”
position.
Take hold of the lead just above the clip with your right
hand. Stop, give the command “stand”, and jerk
the lead backwards along the dog’s right shoulder. At
the same time place your left hand on the front of the dog’s
left hind leg and lock it back to stop the dog from sitting.
Take care that the backward jerk on the lead is not too forceful
– your dog may go direct to the “sit” position.
Let go the pressure on the lead, remove your left hand and
praise your dog.
Make sure you keep your feet facing straight ahead throughout.
Then you are in the correct position to give the dog’s
name, followed by the command “heel”.
Once your dog has been trained to “stay” in the
“sit” or “down” position and has learned
to “stand”, you can apply the “stay”
command to the “stand” position.
Recall
This is the most important exercise in training your dog.
You should be able to recall your dog in any situation, whether
it be chasing another dog or car, running up to visitors,
or if the dog seems likely to become involved in any potentially
dangerous situation. It is also pretty embarrassing having
to chase a dog that won’t come when called and actually
runs off down the street! You must be able to trust your dog
off the lead.
The recall should be taught as early as possible in the training
programme and reinforced frequently. As soon as your dog has
learnt to “heel”, “sit” and “stay”,
you should begin teaching “recall” using the lead
and check-chain collar.
Put your dog in the sit-stay or down-stay position. With
the lead in your right hand, move in front of the dog, turn
around and walk backwards for a metre or so, and then stop.
Remain motionless for a few seconds, then say the dog’s
name in an inviting tone, followed by the command “come”.
If necessary, bend down and pat your knee as added encouragement.
As soon as the dog stands and moves towards you, praise it
and keep praising it as your walk slowly backwards in a straight
line, gathering up the lead so that the dog does not trip.
Do not pull on the lead! When you come to a stop your dog
should be immediately in from of you. As your stop still,
give it the command “sit” and pull the lead vertically
upwards over its head, at the same time leaning down and pushing
on its hindquarters to put it into the “sit” position.
Praise your dog immediately.
After doing a recall, you can either return to your dog’s
right side or you can train your dog to return to your left
on the command “heel”. When your dog is sitting
in front of you, step forward and slightly to the side with
your right foot, placing it beside your dog’s right
hindquarter. Pass the lead behind your back from your right
to your left hand. As you bring your left foot forward beside
your right, turn your head to the left and give the command
“heel”. Your dog will follow the sound of your
voice and walk round to your left side. Immediately give the
command “sit”, and praise your dog when it responds.
When you feel confident that your dog understands what the
command “come” means, start doing recalls off-lead
in a safe area.
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